Installation Guide
The official Metal Ceiling Express installation guide — every install type, with the tools you'll need and the steps in order. Prefer paper on the ladder? Download the PDF version.
Nail-Up Ceiling Tile Pre-Installation
- Measuring tape
- Screwdriver / power drill
- Screws
- Hammer
- Nails
- String
- Shims
- Ladder
- 3/8" or 1/2" plywood, or 1" × 2" / 1" × 3" furring strips
Metal ceiling tiles require a soft, wood substrate to be nailed into place. There are two common methods to achieve this: cover your entire ceiling in sheets of 3/8" or 1/2" plywood, or build a grid pattern of 1" × 2" or 1" × 3" furring strips.
Furring Strip Installation
- Use a screwdriver or power drill to attach the first furring strips around the edges of the ceiling, leaving each screw slightly loose.
- Attach more strips from the center of the ceiling outward, perpendicular to ceiling joists, spacing them either 6" or 12" apart.
- To check alignment, create a loop at each end of a piece of string and slip the loops over a nail placed at each end of the ceiling.
- If the strips and the string are not parallel, use a hammer to tap in a shim (wedge-shaped piece of wood). Note: the farther the shim goes in, the more the furring strip will move downward.
- Once the furring strips are level, fully tighten all the screws.
- Attach blocking strips between the furring strips at 2' intervals to create a nailing surface for each edge of the ceiling tiles.
Nail-Up Ceiling Tile Installation
- Measuring tape
- Level
- Chalk line
- Hammer
- Cone head nails
- Ladder
- Silicone caulking
- Caulking gun
- 24" × 24" ceiling tiles
- Use a chalk line to mark diagonal lines from corner to corner on the ceiling. The meeting point of these lines will indicate the ceiling's center point.
- Use a measuring tape to find the center point of each wall. From these points, snap chalk lines across the ceiling and through the ceiling's center point to divide the room into quarters.
- Begin at the ceiling's center and align the first ceiling tile's corner with the intersection of the chalk lines.
- Using a hammer and cone head nails, nail the first tile in place along its border (the nail rail). Note: nails should be driven in every 6" and will become part of the overall pattern.
- Install subsequent tiles in parallel rows, overlapping edges with adjacent tiles. Note: where possible, exposed overlapping edges should be oriented away from the room's entry point to reduce the visibility of any gaps at the seams.
- Repeat step 5 until you have covered the desired area of your ceiling.
- If necessary, apply clear silicone caulk to overlapping joints for a seamless finish.
Special note: during installation, you may want to snap additional chalk lines on the ceiling based on tile widths to simplify the process.
Planning this ceiling? The Ceiling Visualizer lays your pattern out from the room's center — exactly like these chalk lines — and counts your tiles and nails as you go.
Drop-In Ceiling Tile Installation
- 24" × 24" ceiling tiles
- Hold-down clips (optional)
- Ladder
- To install a ceiling tile into previously installed grid, turn the tile on a slight angle and slide it through the 2' × 2' opening.
- Ensure the pattern is facing downwards and lay the tile down with its edges resting along the ceiling grid.
- Attach hold-down clips to ensure that no gaps appear between the grid and the tile.
- Repeat steps 1–3 until the entire grid or the desired area is filled.
Special note: for smaller grid openings around the perimeter of the room, it will be necessary to cut ceiling tiles to ensure they fit correctly. For tiles with deep-profile patterns, consider using filler tiles around the perimeter, as they will prevent gaps appearing between the cut ceiling tiles and the grid.
Need clip counts? The Project Calculators figure hold-down clips from your room's grid automatically.
Filler Tile Installation
- Construction adhesive
- Tin snips
- Hammer
- Cone head nails
- Ladder
- 24" × 24" filler tiles
Most people do not incorporate filler tiles into their metal ceiling layout and simply use their desired pattern across the entire ceiling. However, there are some instances where filler tiles should be used: when drop-in ceiling tiles have a deep-profile pattern and do not sit flush on the wall angle, or when filler tiles are specified in the design layout.
Filler Tile Installation for Nail-Up Ceilings
- Using tin snips, cut the filler tile to fit the desired area on the ceiling. Note: if filler tiles are being used around the ceiling's perimeter, cut them so that they fit flush against the wall.
- Apply Liquid Nails, or a similar adhesive, to the back of the filler tile and set it into place.
- Use a hammer and cone head nails to nail the filler tile onto the ceiling. Note: nails should be driven in every 6" along the tile's nail rail.
- Install subsequent tiles in parallel rows, overlapping edges with adjacent tiles.
- Repeat steps 2–4 until the desired area has been filled.
Filler Tile Installation for Drop-In Ceilings
- Using tin snips, cut the filler tile to fit the desired grid size of the ceiling.
- To install a filler tile into the previously installed grid, turn the tile on a slight angle and slide it through the opening.
- Ensure the pattern is facing downwards and lay the tile down with its edges resting along the ceiling grid.
- Repeat steps 2 and 3 until the desired area has been filled.
Crown Molding Installation
- Tin snips
- Pen/marker
- Speed square
- Hammer
- Cone head nails
- Ladder
- Crown molding
- Starting in any corner of the room, nail the top edge of the molding to the ceiling, ensuring that nails are driven in at 6" intervals.
- Nail the bottom edge of the molding to the wall, with nails driven in at 6" intervals.
- Continue installing crown molding until you reach the next corner of the room. Note: each piece of molding should overlap with the adjacent piece by 1/4".
Inside Corner Installation
- Using tin snips, cut the piece of molding leading into the corner to fit flush against the wall, then nail it into place using the method outlined above.
- Trace the curve of the previously installed piece of molding onto the section of molding that will lead out from the corner and then cut along this line.
- The newly cut section of molding should sit flush against the previously installed section and can be nailed into place using the method outlined above.
Outside Corner Installation
- Mark and cut a 45° angle on the molding where it overhangs the wall's corner. Note: the bottom edge will align with the corner of the wall and the top edge will extend past the corner.
- Repeat step 1 for the second piece of molding.
- Both pieces of molding should fit flush together at the outside corner of the wall and can be nailed into place using the method outlined above.
Backsplash Installation
- Measuring tape
- Pen/marker
- Tin snips
- Construction adhesive
- Level
- Silicone caulking
- Caulking gun
- 24" × 24" backsplash tiles
- From the countertop, measure the height of the wall that you are installing your backsplash tiles onto.
- If the wall between your countertop and cabinet is less than 24", you will need to mark this height on your tile and cut it so that it fits flush under the cabinet.
- Apply Liquid Nails, or a similar construction adhesive, to the back of the first tile and set it into place.
- Repeat steps 1–3 as you move across the wall, making sure to overlap the edges of adjacent tiles.
- After all the tiles are in place, apply a bead of clear silicone caulk to all overlapping joints and along the edge where the tiles meet the countertop to prevent water from getting behind the tiles.
Special note: cone head nails can be used instead of construction adhesive to install backsplash tiles.
Fixtures
- Measuring tape
- Pen/marker
- Power drill
- Tin snips
- 24" × 24" ceiling tiles
Our metal ceiling tiles can accommodate a wide range of fixtures, including lights, vents, recessed lighting, and chandeliers.
Accommodating for Fixtures
- Remove the fixture from the ceiling.
- Measure from the tile's edge to the fixture's edge and mark this point on the back of the tile.
- Lay the fixture on the mark and trace around its perimeter with a pen or marker.
- Use a power drill to make a pilot hole into the center of the traced area.
- Use tin snips to cut out the rest of the tile inside the traced area.
- Install the ceiling tile using one of the above methods.
- Reinstall the fixture over the installed ceiling tile.
Questions mid-project?
Call us at (412) 419-2600 or email sales@metalceilingexpress.com — we do this all day. You can also download this guide as a PDF to keep on the ladder.